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Engine Oil

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charge

Veteran
arechin: The higher rating (20W-50) will cause ur engine to have more wear and tear when it is cold.

mio: Yea, the dealer in Penang has an official workshop just right behind. They have all kind of engine oil, not only Yamalube and Shell (Yamaha's recommendation). The old uncle of the workshop is a modder himself. He has modded a few Lagenda 110 with the cone type air filter placed at the carburator air intake port.
 
dude_pare01

dude_pare01

Super Veteran
Guys,

Hope this could help us choose which oil to use or buy for our bike, please see attachment.

for each item on the comparison table heres a little info about them
1. API - American Petroleum Institute. Oil quality rating. Mostly engines we see are the API SG, the newest are API SH, SJ, & SL.
http://www.api.org/Standards/
2. VISCOSITY GRADE - the Winter grade and the SAE grade, it all depends on the climate and your engine. In our country we can use 0W upto 20W. In cold countries they use 10W or less. for SAE grade I think we should follow the manual that came with our bikes. Our manual indicates the API and recommended SAE grade. (my bike is API SG and the manual recommends SAE 40).
3. Viscosity INDEX - just remember the higher the better.
http://www.tpub.com/content/engine/1410 ... 105_37.htm
4. Viscosity at 100°C - The higher the better. This is proportional to the SAE Viscosity grade.
5. Viscosity at 40°C - This depends on the climate and your engine or your preference, but for the engine the lower the better. This is also in relation to the Winter grade.

Note: 1. Descriptions stated above are based on my opinion and on how i understood each item.
2. The comparision table attached data are based on manufacturer TDS (Technical Data Sheet).
3. Any Comments, suggestion and corrections are highly appreciated.
 
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CrescentScythe_86

New Member
elow every1, long time no see. hehehe. im interested with this topic. mybe i can share this with u guys. higher grade mean... API mean...ahhh~~ 4got. but its hav something to do with automotive engineering standard. which is tell us, at the engine oil we use it have a code like SF, SG, SJ, SL, and the latest SM. the lowest oil standard is SF, below that mean the oil expired frm its std code. b4 the last oil change i used shell VSX RM22-25 here semisynt 15W-50. 15W mean in winter the oil viscocity is 15. at the higher or max temp the visc is 50. its mean ur engine become heavier. so to solve this problem ive changed to motul 3100 15W-50 semysynt RM28. this is very worth oil. no clutch slipage during high rev riding and during temp rised. but still got problem with heavier engine. then i changed to motul 5100 semysynt/esther RM35. but lower visc 10W-40. 10W-40 i think much better for my bike. no need choke. its feel very very very smooth in high rpm and low rpm. even i can change to gear 4 at 40kmh. its very suitable for the catalytic converter engine. so this is my recomended oil is MOTUL. now i see, y the motoGP rider no. 46, World Superbike Championship rider no.3 are using MOTUL oil a products from france. Much info? www.high-n.com :D
 
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CrescentScythe_86

New Member
4 STROKE ENGINE OIL

SEMI-SYNTHETICS/ESTERS
5100 4T
10W50 1L 5100 4T
15W50 1L 5100 4T
10W40 1L 5100 4T
10W30 1L

Ester technology-high protection
High film strength and easier and faster gear changing. Meets JASO MA. Ideal for oil immersed clutches. Convertible with catalytic converters.
Standards: API SL/SJ/SH/SG-JASO MA New Viscosity 10W30
Meets motorcycle manufacturer's most recent specifications. High film strength and easier and faster gear changing. Meets JASO MA. Ideal for oil immersed clutches. Compatible with catalytic converters.
Standards: API SL/ SJ/SH/SG-JASO MA

The Esters use in the new 5100 provide exceptional performance:
• Improved film strength
• Increased gearbox and engine protection
• Exceeds JASO MA
 

Attachments

goff_d_p

goff_d_p

Super Veteran
some things are so hard to find!

I can not find any MOTUL oil here. I want to know why. I'm using ELF full synthetic 10w50. i was using the Shell full synthetic10w40, and i had clutch burning on long drives. anyway back to the ELF, after about 4 days of using the Shell, i changed the oil because of the clutch slipping, to the elf, and it was a big differance. smooth ride, almost no vibration in the engine, shifting is like butter, and i can also go into 4th at about 40klm/h.

below is just a pic of the oil i'm using now.
 
goff_d_p

goff_d_p

Super Veteran
zELF is solt at Total gas staitions. so you should be able to get it. I need to get ELF fork oil 10w. my forks are dry.
 
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charge

Veteran
Re: some things are so hard to find!

goff_d_p said:
I can not find any MOTUL oil here. I want to know why. I'm using ELF full synthetic 10w50. i was using the Shell full synthetic10w40, and i had clutch burning on long drives. anyway back to the ELF, after about 4 days of using the Shell, i changed the oil because of the clutch slipping, to the elf, and it was a big differance. smooth ride, almost no vibration in the engine, shifting is like butter, and i can also go into 4th at about 40klm/h.
Click to expand...
Yeah, I never like Shell actually. Their semi-synthetic also felt very sluggish compared to Motul semi. ELF is top class oil as well, i have a few frens using them and they are all happy =D

I am wondering how long is ur long drives? My maximum is about 2.5 hours (1 hour is super high rpm in hill run) every week on EX5, using 5W-40 Hi-rev Gold. Haven't really tried 135LC long hour on 5W-30. I'll share my experience here after the hill run on next weekend ;)

Oh well, the current Royal-Purple 5W-30 has really smooth shifting too. I can easily pickup at low rpm compared to Motul 10W-40 (Semi). If this rating doesn't burn the clutch I'll continue to use it =D
 
goff_d_p

goff_d_p

Super Veteran
well the logest ride i went on was about 12 hours with pit stops, total of i think more than 350klm's. that was a good day,

that was in one day.
 
rudduan

rudduan

Super Veteran
so what brand of oil that u think is the best to use to our bike??make it official oil can we??? what do u think bout YAMALUBE???? anybody tried it yet???
 
rudduan

rudduan

Super Veteran
motul have lots of type of engine oil,be specific which one,i just bought MOTUL 1000 20w50 coz not enough money to buy the 3000 20w50,first time using it,anybody have used it??? is it good??
 
rudduan

rudduan

Super Veteran
im gonna try it on the next change rooster,i feel the diff btween shell and motul,its smooth in shifting gears now,why i didnt use it from day1 hmmm....................... :cry:
 
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arechin

Veteran
so i'll change my engine oil to wat ur using now rooster..
maybe motul 20w40..
i'll change it by this afternoon..
 
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charge

Veteran
Can I use car engine oil in my motorbike then?

The real answer to this question lies in the type of motorbike you own. If you own a bike with a wet clutch (ie. where the clutch sits partially submerged in the sump oil) and you dump car oil into it, all sorts of nasty things happen. Oils formulated for car engines have friction modifiers in them. When the engine oil gets into the clutch, the friction modifiers get to work and you'll end up with a clutch that won't bite. In addition, the chemical makeup of some car oils has been known to soften the clutch material on motorbikes to the point where the entire clutch pack fails. Bike oils generally don't have friction modifiers, so they don't have this problem. If you're not sure, check for a JASO MA spec on the bottle. If you see that on the label, then it means the oil has been tested and confirmed to work with a wet clutch.
 
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