malaysia stock bike top speed

[sniper0900]

LC speed based to GPS reading...stock....front tyre 80/90 rear tyre 80/90

i hav done this so many times....

LC 110km/h=GPS 87km/h
120km/h=GPS 97km/h
140km/h=GPS 110km/h
150km/h=GPS 120km/h
160km/h=GPS 125km/h

LC compared to FZ150i

LC 135km/h=FZ150i 120km/h

LC 140km/h=Car 120km/h

that's all

 

[AZ135]

LC speed based to GPS reading...stock....front tyre 80/90 rear tyre 80/90

i hav done this so many times....

LC 110km/h=GPS 87km/h
120km/h=GPS 97km/h
140km/h=GPS 110km/h
150km/h=GPS 120km/h
160km/h=GPS 125km/h

These are the most realistic numbers for the T135 and compare very similar to my own GPS reading.

 

[traxxas-modifier]

@sniper0900

thanks for this great info!
bro from your post you said your front tire is 80/90?
the stock front tire should be 70/90

 

[phl6684]

myabe its a typing error..
so anxious to share the info ...huhuh

 

[sniper0900]

traxxas-modifier

no typo error...what I mean by stock is my engine....my front tyre 80/90 rear 80/90
yes stock tyre is 70/90 but I hav change it....never test GPS reading with stock tyre...there is slight different reading between 70/90 n 80/90 but I think 80/90 will give u more accurate reading...

anyone can test their bike with 70/90?

 

[kamen rider x]

Hi Guys..
I try saturday night last week..

This is My result

Engine-Standard 135LC ES Hand Clucth
Oil Engine-Motul 15-50w 800ml
Cdi-Standard
Exzos-Standard
Sprocket-14/35 415H sss (ratio 2.5)
Sport Rim-Standard
Tyre Front-80/90 Dunlop tt900
Tyre Back-90/80 Michelin Pilot Sporty
Rider Weigth-49kg

1 gear-45km/h
2 gear-85km/h
3 gear-135km/h
4 gear-160km/h

Down hill-170km/h

 

[sniper0900]

Hi Guys..
I try saturday night last week..

This is My result

Engine-Standard 135LC ES Hand Clucth
Oil Engine-Motul 15-50w 800ml
Cdi-Standard
Exzos-Standard
Sprocket-14/35 415H sss (ratio 2.5)
Sport Rim-Standard
Tyre Front-80/90 Dunlop tt900
Tyre Back-90/80 Michelin Pilot Sporty
Rider Weigth-49kg

1 gear-45km/h
2 gear-85km/h
3 gear-135km/h
4 gear-160km/h

Down hill-170km/h

this is not stock but modified....sprocket should b 39/15, no TPS angle setup, no CDI cut off remove....

try to measure your speedo with GPS....this is the correct way....

 

[Jiwa Kelajuan]

Remove CDI cut off

How did you guys remove the CDI cut off? And
Sepupu sy kata, LC135 2nd hand die beli adalah yang 1st batch, x ada cut off ape2, convoy dari JB sampai Melaka, ngan kekawan yang ada LC135 2nd batch seterusnya, terkincit LC kekawan kena tinggal kat belakang, sampai x nampak, kena tinggal. Speedo die sampai tidur, lebeh 180++km/j. Betol ka? Jadi apa yang membezakan LC135 1st batch ni ngan versi cut off, meaning 2nd batch onwards? Bleh x kita convert LC 2nd batch kita jadi macam LC 1st batch yang standard tu? Maksudnya, speed senang2 bleh cecah 180km/j. Then sy tanya taukey keday jual motor and repair motor kat Falim, berhampiran Ipoh, apa yg membezakan LC 1st batch ngan yang version cut off yg bebaru ni. Dia kata juz tukar and masukkan CDI LC 1st batch aja, da bleh sama dengan performance dgn yg 1st batch. Betol ke? And dia nak RM300++ sumtin ntuk wat, bleh percaya ke? Sgt2 memerlukan pendapat dari semua PRO2 T135 kat cni.
Sepupu sy kata, LC135 2nd hand die beli adalah yang 1st batch, x ada cut off ape2, convoy dari JB sampai Melaka, ngan kekawan yang ada LC135 2nd batch seterusnya, terkincit LC kekawan kena tinggal kat belakang, sampai x nampak, kena tinggal. Speedo die sampai tidur, lebeh 180++km/j. Betol ka? Jadi apa yang membezakan LC135 1st batch ni ngan versi cut off, meaning 2nd batch onwards? Bleh x kita convert LC 2nd batch kita jadi macam LC 1st batch yang standard tu? Maksudnya, speed senang2 bleh cecah 180km/j. Then sy tanya taukey keday jual motor and repair motor kat Falim, berhampiran Ipoh, apa yg membezakan LC 1st batch ngan yang version cut off yg bebaru ni. Dia kata juz tukar and masukkan CDI LC 1st batch aja, da bleh sama dengan performance dgn yg 1st batch. Betol ke? And dia nak RM300++ sumtin ntuk wat, bleh percaya ke? Sgt2 memerlukan pendapat dari semua PRO2 T135 kat cni.Sepupu sy kata, LC135 2nd hand die beli adalah yang 1st batch, x ada cut off ape2, convoy dari JB sampai Melaka, ngan kekawan yang ada LC135 2nd batch seterusnya, terkincit LC kekawan kena tinggal kat belakang, sampai x nampak, kena tinggal. Speedo die sampai tidur, lebeh 180++km/j. Betol ka? Jadi apa yang membezakan LC135 1st batch ni ngan versi cut off, meaning 2nd batch onwards? Bleh x kita convert LC 2nd batch kita jadi macam LC 1st batch yang standard tu? Maksudnya, speed senang2 bleh cecah 180km/j. Then sy tanya taukey keday jual motor and repair motor kat Falim, berhampiran Ipoh, apa yg membezakan LC 1st batch ngan yang version cut off yg bebaru ni. Dia kata juz tukar and masukkan CDI LC 1st batch aja, da bleh sama dengan performance dgn yg 1st batch. Betol ke? And dia nak RM300++ sumtin ntuk wat, bleh percaya ke? Sgt2 memerlukan pendapat dari semua PRO2 T135 kat cni.

 

[kid]

remember full throttle for 160km++ non stop will damage ur bike slow and slowly.. untuk jenis yg jln jauh2 nie memadai la pakai blok fzi @ yg terbaru saiz 58mm diasil harga mahal,low camshaft or high camshaft also can..racing spring valve,carb rxz..cdi racing.. 1st batch cdi cut off sampai 9k rpm 2nd is 8k rpm so btter beli aftermarket punye..dlm 350 dpt dah...head kasi korek sket.. exhasut tuka madifol besar.. dah sedap jln tue

 

[Jiwa Kelajuan]

This is my current spesifications>>
Engine oil: 300V 4T FACTORYLINE 5W40(Been using since the bike "habes pantang";
Sprocket front 15, Rear 38(RK-M Gold);
Smaller Carburetor Jet Needle Nozzle(Tambun LC workshop custom);
Harden and Heighten Monoshock Absorber(Tambun LC workshop custom);
Duro Rear tyre size:110/70;
Dunlop TT900 Front tyre size:80:80;
Odometer clocked 21,000km++

Resultin current Malaysian LC's speedo error)
1st gear = 40 km/h
2nd gear = 70 km/h
3rd gear = 115 km/h
4th gear = 150 km/h

Anyway, I had been ALWAYS maintaining full throttle along my journey back home from Tronoh to Segamat, seriously. And I currently face no problem with the bike whatsoever. It is just that, I'm not really satisfied with the top speed of around 145-155 km/h on vertical road. I need the most reliable, stable and resilience yet very HIGH PERFORMANCE modification possible.
According to my motto(Reliable, Stable and Resilience yet very HIGH PERFORMANCE),what are the best aftermarket brand and type of parts that I should go for?
1)CDI Racing =?
2)FZI Block with 58mm Diasil?
3)High camshaft, what kind specifically?
4)Racing spring valve, details?
5)Carburetor RXZ? Is there any better options?
6)Manifold and exhaust system = Yoshimura Tri-Oval?

Sorry for the long or inappropriate post.
Cheers!

 

[gunkhean]

just change the FZ150 block & kawasaki kips carb is enought to go over 160km/h. now many people do that. i will do that soon......

 

[phl6684]

remember full throttle for 160km++ non stop will damage ur bike slow and slowly.. untuk jenis yg jln jauh2 nie memadai la pakai blok fzi @ [highlight=red]yg terbaru saiz 58mm diasil harga mahal[/highlight],low camshaft or high camshaft also can..racing spring valve,carb rxz..cdi racing.. 1st batch cdi cut off sampai 9k rpm 2nd is 8k rpm so btter beli aftermarket punye..dlm 350 dpt dah...head kasi korek sket.. exhasut tuka madifol besar.. dah sedap jln tue

brappe harge nie??kt mana da jual??

 

[kid]

1)CDI Racing =if u got some money better buy xp andirion + andirion coil
2)FZI Block with 58mm Diasil? = that new thing in the market.. u also can try 61mm block ( TAIKOM )
3)High camshaft, what kind specifically? = find the degree 285-300
4)Racing spring valve, details? = find the hard spring which can stand ur high rpm
5)Carburetor RXZ? Is there any better options? = rxz is for safe fuel but if u use big bro like 60mm or 61mm try find keihin pwl or pe carb,size 28mm from kawasaki kips bike
6)Manifold and exhaust system = Yoshimura Tri-Oval? = if u want use pom pom exhaust u can by ahm or yy pang.. std exhaust also good when u mod it..like mine uhuh

 

[kid]

remember full throttle for 160km++ non stop will damage ur bike slow and slowly.. untuk jenis yg jln jauh2 nie memadai la pakai blok fzi @ [highlight=red]yg terbaru saiz 58mm diasil harga mahal[/highlight],low camshaft or high camshaft also can..racing spring valve,carb rxz..cdi racing.. 1st batch cdi cut off sampai 9k rpm 2nd is 8k rpm so btter beli aftermarket punye..dlm 350 dpt dah...head kasi korek sket.. exhasut tuka madifol besar.. dah sedap jln tue

brappe harge nie??kt mana da jual??

dekat nks sentol

 

[Jiwa Kelajuan]

1)CDI Racing =if u got some money better buy xp andirion + andirion coil
2)FZI Block with 58mm Diasil? = that new thing in the market.. u also can try 61mm block ( TAIKOM )
3)High camshaft, what kind specifically? = find the degree 285-300
4)Racing spring valve, details? = find the hard spring which can stand ur high rpm
5)Carburetor RXZ? Is there any better options? = rxz is for safe fuel but if u use big bro like 60mm or 61mm try find keihin pwl or pe carb,size 28mm from kawasaki kips bike
6)Manifold and exhaust system = Yoshimura Tri-Oval? = if u want use pom pom exhaust u can by ahm or yy pang.. std exhaust also good when u mod it..like mine uhuh

Okie thank you bro for the responds!
Meaning with all those, FZi (58mm or 57mm?) block, XP Andirion + Andirion Coil, 285-300 Degree High Camshaft, Hard Racing Spring Valve, RXZ Carburetor and Modded Standard Exhaust like yours, my bike can got out-meter already?
Can cruise for 160km/h for more than an hour too?
What are the estimated cost for all of above?
Its the most stable and resilience yet high performing mod rite? In the hand of skilled workmanship technician?

 

[titanX]

1)CDI Racing =if u got some money better buy xp andirion + andirion coil
2)FZI Block with 58mm Diasil? = that new thing in the market.. u also can try 61mm block ( TAIKOM )
3)High camshaft, what kind specifically? = [highlight=red]find the degree 285-300 [/highlight]

How can we figure the cam degree? acctlly, if we go to shop, either behind or front of the cam packet doesn't write any of a degree.

 

[phl6684]

yeah..tomorrow i will ask nks sentul for the 58mm diasil..

and like titanX said..how can we measure the degree??

and if u familiar with CMS racing cam..what are the specification of this cam??

and if u used racing cam..either high or low cam..the piston have to be modified rite??
if we dont modified the piston,but just adjust the valve clearance??can??

 

[kid]

1)CDI Racing =if u got some money better buy xp andirion + andirion coil
2)FZI Block with 58mm Diasil? = that new thing in the market.. u also can try 61mm block ( TAIKOM )
3)High camshaft, what kind specifically? = find the degree 285-300
4)Racing spring valve, details? = find the hard spring which can stand ur high rpm
5)Carburetor RXZ? Is there any better options? = rxz is for safe fuel but if u use big bro like 60mm or 61mm try find keihin pwl or pe carb,size 28mm from kawasaki kips bike
6)Manifold and exhaust system = Yoshimura Tri-Oval? = if u want use pom pom exhaust u can by ahm or yy pang.. std exhaust also good when u mod it..like mine uhuh

Okie thank you bro for the responds!
Meaning with all those, FZi (58mm or 57mm?) block, XP Andirion + Andirion Coil, 285-300 Degree High Camshaft, Hard Racing Spring Valve, RXZ Carburetor and Modded Standard Exhaust like yours, my bike can got out-meter already?
Can cruise for 160km/h for more than an hour too?
What are the estimated cost for all of above?
Its the most stable and resilience yet high performing mod rite? In the hand of skilled workmanship technician?

yeah easy out meter whit good setting and mod..the cost u can pm me dude ..i will tell u ...better u find carb size 28mm ...
btw iam sorry that diasil block is fake bro... i spoke to yamaha racing krew yesterday..they said no block 58 from yamaha part..they copy the box yamaha part but inside is fake.so fzi is 57mm only after 58mm++ is faster market..

 

[kid]

1)CDI Racing =if u got some money better buy xp andirion + andirion coil
2)FZI Block with 58mm Diasil? = that new thing in the market.. u also can try 61mm block ( TAIKOM )
3)High camshaft, what kind specifically? = [highlight=red]find the degree 285-300 [/highlight]

How can we figure the cam degree? acctlly, if we go to shop, either behind or front of the cam packet doesn't write any of a degree.

i dont know what the machine name but i do know what it look like..
mostly after market cam 280-300 degree

 

[kid]

yeah..tomorrow i will ask nks sentul for the 58mm diasil..

and like titanX said..how can we measure the degree??

and if u familiar with CMS racing cam..what are the specification of this cam??

and if u used racing cam..either high or low cam..the piston have to be modified rite??
if we dont modified the piston,but just adjust the valve clearance??can??

iam sorry that diasil block is fake bro... i spoke to yamaha racing krew yesterday..they said no block 58 from yamaha part..they copy the box yamaha part but inside is fake.so fzi is 57mm only after 58mm++ is faster market..

CMS is 280-285 degree .. for me its good too for lower beget

the piston need to mod if we skim the block for find good compressor mean after we skim block ..block will near the head..and the top piston will crash the valve..so we need to mod the piston for not touching the valve

if we install the camshaft only..we just need to do valve clearance ...