Please Help, I am sooo sad :(

[charge]

Today I went to Hong Leong Yamaha to check why my beloved T135 doesnt have enough horsepower after 7000rpm. Below is the dialogue

Me: Why my bike felt sluggish right after certain RPM when revving high?

Tech: can you please describe in more detail?

Me: it cuts off about 7000rpm and i dun see this happen in 1st generation bike.

Tech: ohh, 2nd generation is like this. We do this so that top speed stays below 140kph.

Me: Can you help me to reset?

Tech: No, it is impossible.

Me: Why? How about changing to racing CDI or re-calibrating TPS?

Tech: No. It is because of wiring problem.

Me: Wiring? what wiring?

Tech: The wiring system of the whole 2nd generation T135 is different from 1st generation.

Me: (WTF!!) How about rewiring them according to 1st generation?

Tech: Cannot also. You don't have strong current.

Me: Then? Change battery? Change the magnetic coil?

Tech: No, it doesnt help.

Me: (i am doubting now). How about changing a whole new engine block, carburetor and etc?

Tech: Still doesn't help. This is 2nd generation characteristic.

Me: (damn disappointed ady). thanks.


Sigh... anybody knows how wiring system can retard the high RPM power?

Hope I can get help from you guys, thanksss.

 

[dehanz]

I'm no expert in this, but the only ways that i can think of on how Yamaha detune bike to comply with local authority road regulation (limiting maximum speed, exhaust emission, noise emission, fuel consumption etc) is :

1) CDI - Because this unit control the ignition, say ignition cut out at 9,000 rpm,then
2) Camshaft - Determine at what RPM the peak power/torque occur
3) Transmission - Match the engine powerband to the gearing. They calculate the ratio and theoretical speed which can be obtain at each gear number. (Refer to the other thread, there is a excel spreadsheet which can do the calculation)
4) Carb - rejet the carb to limit the power output

Anyone plz correct me.

 

[unlimited express]

maybe, theres something that stops the engine or regulates the engine before it exceeds a certain RPM. As what I understand, its mostly on the CDI that do this, as we all know, there is what we call rev limiter. if you want to, better get a CDI without rev limiter. For the engine, I think they are all the same in terms of specs either 1st or 2nd gen.

Well, its one disadvantage. you can't go very fast. on the other hand, its actually for your own protection and safety dude.

 

[goff_d_p]

it sounds like a restricter plate, which is useally on cars and big bikes. which now days i do believe are electronically controlled. In our T135 carb type, there may be two types of restricter's, one is the CDI and the other may be the carb. In contrast, your trans gearing may also be changed from factory due to regulations in your country. like here in PI, almost all T135 can only top out at 120klm. Even with some mods.
I know someone who ported, polished, kitty 2 CDI, free flow exhaust, and all and he still can't go over 120klm. so....
It's kinda hard to say why your bike has this type of restricter, or how to change it. You can always change your main gears in your trans to a lower number from stock settings, bigger carb, big block kit, cdi, ect.ect.ect. But it's really hard to say if it will or will not change.

Sorry bro, you just have to try it to see what your results will be.

 

[stuff]

2nd generation 135lc mean the hand clutch version right?

 

[135lcSS]

i dont know...but i've heard many people saying that the 1st magnetic coil give more power than the 2nd generation magnetic coil.. and gotta do with sumthing with the CDI..its not the same i think...hmm Stuff...Charge is talking about an auto clutch T135 not manual clutch

 

[firz]

hey guys how do you differentiate between the 1st gen and 2nd gen 135lc..pls be more specific..

thanx

 

[charge]

2nd generation 135LC in malaysia are sold starting around June 2007.

Hmm... my 1st, 2nd and 3rd gear can all go to the theoretical max speed at 9000rpm, but at high rpm the acceleration is freaking slow esp. for 3rd gear.

goff, did that someone changed his sprocket as well?

haha, maybe i'll play with carb 1st calibration, since it is zero cost. Hey 135lcSS, find one day may need ur help. I plan to buy a multimeter to measure the current strength. Wish to compare it with yours since you can accelerate so blardly fast, hahaha.


Thanks dehanz, unlimited_express, goff_d_p, 135lcSS for your feedbacks!

 

[goff_d_p]

yeah, he changed the front and rear sprocket, cam, cdi, lighter rims, Daytona's tenspoke, with rear disk, i think he eather had the kitty or the HGM exhaust, not sure., alloy swing arm, alloy forks, a lot of work.

 

[charge]

Gosh... changed sprocket also cannot go beyond 120kph? That's bad...

Well, I've changed to 15-42 recently. When I measure my speedo with car speedo, it is different from 15-39. Last time it was about 20% off, now decreased to 16%. This is really weird

Last time with 15-39, I can easily top at 130kph, downhill 140kph and long straight at 150kph.

Now with 15-42, easily top at 120kph, downhill 130kph, long straight not yet try.

 

[unlimited express]

15 42 is better than stock in terms of acceleration but top speed suffers. I am also using 15-42 coz I want a better pick up. I only tried to measure the top speed after changing to free flow pipe and it improved a lot. I don't race thats why i don't need to improve the top speed. The roads here are like surface of the moon. hehe

 

[traxxas-modifier]

hmmm..

i observed that the mechanic always answer NO
i guess hes not in the mood to talk all those things.

charge how did you know that its limiter affects at 7000rpm?
do you have a tachometer?

 

[charge]

unlimited express:
haha, same goes to me. Road surface at my place also like moon. 100kph is more than enough for me. I love the feel when accelerating from low rpm, this sprocket combination is superb. What pipe are u using dude?

traxxas:
yeah, that fella was busy playing with FZ150i. Sheezzz, the engine sound is similar with T135, but it has more 'ohm'. * drooling *
I don't have a tachometer. I simply see which speed at particular gear slows down in acceleration, and then check it with my sprocket combo computation spreadsheet. Found out that it starts to lose power around 7000 - 7300rpm.

 

[unlimited express]

I'm using a locally made pipe. Its 4N pipes. Its popular here in my place and I can say the best for my bike. Its quite loud but as you go faster, its getting quiter. ride safe dude.

 

[traxxas-modifier]

unlimited express:
haha, same goes to me. Road surface at my place also like moon. 100kph is more than enough for me. I love the feel when accelerating from low rpm, this sprocket combination is superb. What pipe are u using dude?

traxxas:
yeah, that fella was busy playing with FZ150i. Sheezzz, the engine sound is similar with T135, but it has more 'ohm'. * drooling *
I don't have a tachometer. I simply see which speed at particular gear slows down in acceleration, and then check it with my sprocket combo computation spreadsheet. Found out that it starts to lose power around 7000 - 7300rpm.

there must be some error in your computations if thats the case.
speedometer of 135lc malaysian version are erroneous (160kph)
theres no way you cant attain that speed on "stock" small bikes
like us.

better buy tachometer if you really want to get better understanding
of yur engine

thanks

 

[charge]

there must be some error in your computations if thats the case.
speedometer of 135lc malaysian version are erroneous (160kph)
theres no way you cant attain that speed on "stock" small bikes
like us.

better buy tachometer if you really want to get better understanding
of yur engine

thanks

I already take the erroneous into account. 2nd generation bike usually can't even go 150kph unless there is a very long straight or downhill. The first 3 gears are correct at ~9000rpm, as the rev limiter will kick in immediately.

My 3rd gear max out at 110kph (msia speedo) when the rev limiter kicks in, and my computation shows about 9000rpm too. However, starting from 90kph I already felt the acceleration getting sluggish. That is about 7000rpm.

anyway, how much is a tachometer? How about digital speedometer? Any good recommendations?
You know traxass, I am really wondering if we can replace the original speedo panel with digital speedo and tacho, hahaha.

 

[135lcSS]

2nd generation 135LC in malaysia are sold starting around June 2007.

Hmm... my 1st, 2nd and 3rd gear can all go to the theoretical max speed at 9000rpm, but at high rpm the acceleration is freaking slow esp. for 3rd gear.

goff, did that someone changed his sprocket as well?

haha, maybe i'll play with carb 1st calibration, since it is zero cost. Hey 135lcSS, find one day may need ur help. I plan to buy a multimeter to measure the current strength. Wish to compare it with yours since you can accelerate so blardly fast, hahaha.




Thanks dehanz, unlimited_express, goff_d_p, 135lcSS for your feedbacks!

haha man i dont know about my bike acceleration..but im using 15-39...easily top speed at 140kph...down hill so fast 160kph..but long road..it takes kinda time to get 160kph..

 

[135lcSS]

Gosh... changed sprocket also cannot go beyond 120kph? That's bad...

Well, I've changed to 15-42 recently. When I measure my speedo with car speedo, it is different from 15-39. Last time it was about 20% off, now decreased to 16%. This is really weird

Last time with 15-39, I can easily top at 130kph, downhill 140kph and long straight at 150kph.

Now with 15-42, easily top at 120kph, downhill 130kph, long straight not yet try.

hey charge when u said that u 've tried its topspeed at the at downhill,longstraight..u ride alone? or with ur friend? :?:

 

[medichloreans]

emm..
how do u know 2nd batch 135lc sold in june?

as far as i know..
1st batch 135lc is 1st 10000 production..
u can see it on chassis number...

u didnt install tachometer..
how do u know exact rpm?

 

[charge]

135lcSS:
I ride alone on Balik Pulau downhill, long straight havent try. need to go PLUS highway to spin 1 round.

medichloreans:
ohh. ic. I said around June based on penang car plate. Maybe other states are not in the same time frame.
i didnt mean exact rpm, but around 7000 - 7300 rpm via computer estimation. The input variables are gear ratios, max rpm at cut off limiter, tyre size, rim size and the speedometer reading.