• If your have CLUB EVENTS/RIDE & would like to announce it here,
    Message traxxas-modifier about it :-)

SOME PROVEN TIPS and TRICKS for T135

S

stroker

Veteran
dopydop said:
@haen

on tip#3, why install a small air filter? i tried it but i noticed that it blows air not sucking air. i think air filter is not needed since its not sucking air. the ais resonator is the one sucking air towards the engine.
Click to expand...
Hi, Im not haen. But I've got some clues to your questions..

First of all, correction, the AIS is not sucking air to the engine as you've put it. It draws air into the exhaust port which helps combust the fuel charge more efficiently for a better tomorrow (yadadadadada). Although from the exterior, it seems like the air is being routed into the cylinder head, it is not. The mechanism on the valve cover acts like a pump, that pumps fresh air into the exhaust port whenever there's a vacuum in the engine.

The engine breather hose while seemingly blows air, does have reversion occuring. Meaning it'll be sucking air as it isn't a one-way passageway. Although not that noticeable. When the piston rises up its stroke, it'll create a vacuum in the engine. The engine is sealed except the breather hose. So where to find the air necessary to displace the vacuum? The breather hose.

2pence yet again.
 
H

haen

Super Veteran
score 100 for stroker..

so the choose whether u want to apply pod air filter element is 100% depends on ur preference guys.. perfectionist and enviromentalist might use pod air filter (like stroker said.. for better tomorrow..lol)... actually.. it's the government regulation which requires output from engine blow by to be directed to air filter box.. to reduce pollution..
 
traxxas-modifier

traxxas-modifier

Super LOLO
Staff member
i never knew the engine breather also two way.
i thought its one way only throwing out air... :)
thanks Nice info bro stroker!



sniper_eds said:
hey guys do you have any pics where the breather pipe located??? thanksss
Click to expand...
breather hose pipe is located on the left side engine.
on top of water pump.
just beside the big black hose coming from the radiator.

ALSO

i have done the tip#5 valve clearance setting
intake 0.10mm
exhaust 0.13mm

so far so good :)
 
S

stroker

Veteran
traxxas-modifier said:
i have done the tip#5 valve clearance setting
intake 0.10mm
exhaust 0.13mm

so far so good :)
Click to expand...
Better keep your eye on the valve clearance often. I won't even go so near for a road-going bike.

Consolation is- that you're using standard valves.. If you're using big valve, you might have to adjust your valves as frequent as once every 1,000km or so till it stabilises.

;-)
 
D

dopydop

New Member
on tip #2, does removing decompression assy will have a chance that our engine will detonate due to high compression? any comments?
 
H

haen

Super Veteran
@dopydop : removing decomp assy wont make ur engine having detonation.. it's only to prevent compression loss.. detonation came from incorrect ignition timing or top alignment setting.. while preignition came from fouled and carbonized piston..

@medichloreans : after removing engine blow by hose and choke rod please do readjust the air screw setting..
 
traxxas-modifier

traxxas-modifier

Super LOLO
Staff member
haen said:
TIP #8

Use a 4 leg RELAY (BOSCH is recommended, PART CODE BOSCH - 0 332 019 453 ), use this to power ur CDI and make that LAZY HORN TO WORK BETTER !!
(see pics attached)


installation on my BIKE :
(see pics attached)


FEEL THE DIFFERENCE !
1. Better ignition because the current is pure = better performance
2. No more power loss when u turn on the head lamp..
3. Cheap trick to increase ignition performance

UPDATE :
4. Your main lamp now is brighter too

INSTALLATION PROCEDURE :

Leg number 30 goes directly to BATTERY'S POSITIVE TERMINAL , use thick cable and clamp, and fuse house complete with the fuse, 10 A will do...

Leg number 87 goes to CDI (cut the brown cable from the harness in the middle and connect it to the relay)

Leg number 85 goes to main switch (the other END of the brown cable that goes to the CDI female socket)..

Leg number 86 goes to GROUND, use cable terminal and screw it anywhere on the chassis (i screwed it at the CDI's bracket bolt)..

TIPS : buy a relay socket to make it easier and appropriate cable terminals (2 female small terminal (goes to the original socket), 1 small cable terminal (goes to the terminal from the original socket, after u pull it out of course by using small minus screwdriver and press softly the small part at the socket terminal), 8 large female terminal (4 for the relay's legs on the socket,2 for cable connection,2 for spares), 2 male large terminal...
Click to expand...



I did apply this tip#8 today.
creating a new wire dedicated for CDI with relay.
i need to have my cdi power wire (color brown) to be separated from
my main wire because ive got lots of gadgets accessories
installed in my bike.

yes it does improve the acceleration :) because
you will supply the cdi the required amount of current needed by it.
by default if youve got no additional accesories installed, then the stock
brown wire to power your cdi is just fine...

but for me, ive got tons of accesories and lights installed.
then its better to have a dedicated wire.

:)
 
traxxas-modifier

traxxas-modifier

Super LOLO
Staff member
I will add up

TIP#9, GROUNDING

give your bike a more better GROUND WIRE (NEGATIVE)
by stock setting, our bike uses the chassis as ground wire (negative)

the black wire in the wiring harness is coming from the terminal
plug in the iginition coil chassis. Thats the source of the negative
in the wiring harness.

by default, from battery (negative) terminal, a ground wire
connected to chassis body.
as time goes by, this chassis body connection is rusting,
thus resulting to corrosion and BAD CONTACT

TO DO THE TRICK:
add a #14 wire directly from the battery negative terminal post
then wire it up connected to ignition coil chassis bolt.
that way you wont rely on the ground (negative) of the chassis body.

this also will give your ignition coil better spark because of good ground (negative) connection
 
M

mus6433

New Member
haen said:
oh btw goff, it's the part #7 AND inner parts of #6 on the parts catalogue, u just have to use only the sprocket thats all...
Click to expand...
Does the inner parts of #6 will effect the exzos tappet?, can someone help, i've remove both parts, now my bike, when it's goes at certain rpm ( mainly at high ) for each gear the bike jerk. base on the speedo, 1st at 20kmh++, 2nd at 80kmh++, 3rd at 100kmh and at 4th at 135kmh++, and my 4th gear indicator light will be turn off at higher rpm, it will lite again when at lower rpm and when the bike stop. :(
 
H

haen

Super Veteran
OTHER USEFUL TIPS : TO IMPROVE AIRFLOW


i found this trick helpful, stock rubber hinders optimum airflow..
as for me, it really add accel on mid to upper end...

please modify ur air intake rubber like this pics (tailor it to ur needs),


modify stock air filter to foam filter..


after cutting the lower part of outer intake rubber,


upper view for us to compare, too bad this is the only intake rubber i got, so i can't compare it to before modification view


another view


INNER intake rubber, cut it as much as you like, this is my first cut step, i plan to expand the hole a bit...
 
L

lc-motospeed

Super Veteran
yupp, remove the snorkel n u'll get more power instantly... if u dun worry bout dirts entering ur carb then juz completely remove the cover n air filter... even more power n a nice 'air' sound... hehe
 
H

haen

Super Veteran
yahh i've tried to remove the snorkel, but it turns out producing that 'air' burrrp sound hehehehhe and the air is not focused to the air filter element.. just as precaution to prevent water got in when washing.. to find best compromise between air volume and safety..
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top