Superb 135Lc parts...bore up kits,BIG VALVE head.

[Mr.Rockies]

We are manufacture of racing parts specialities in T135 engine
Why spend your money for research and found bulk of miss modify?

All below is very safe for daily,long touring,and race (on specify spec)

We offer you 2 kind of engine parts.This both are bore up engine block.
One is for extreme modification and the other is for medium daily usage.
This both plug and play.just prepair your wrench.Thats all.

[glow=red]MODIFY[/glow]

-Larger valve , 25mm inlet and 21 mm outlet.you may compare with standard vale 19,5mm inlet and 17mm outlet.
valve shaft degree has been re adjust. 5 angle technology.
Material for valve end is alumunium broze which is tested longlasting,durable.


-Piston diameter 63,5 mm so displacement would be 180,05 cc
-Water jacket cooling worked.
-Ported inlet

Package contain:

1 Pcs Engine head (ported)
1 Pcs Cylinder.(not diasil)
1 Pcs 63,5 piston.
1 Set Piston rings.
1 Connecting rod.
4 Pcs Valve in and out.
1 Pcs Piston Pin.
1 Pcs upper gasket.
1 Pcs Installation manual.

This modify has been tested,race proven daily tested and precision guarantee.

Kit 1 ===(spec as above w.o cam and spring)Price is for USD 850,exclude shipment.

Kit2 === (spec as above plus research camshaft and spring) USD 1000
[glow=red]FACTORY BORE UP[/glow]

This is factory made.no modify.no engine head.

-60 mm piston,engine displacement would be 161 cc.
-Embossed piston,so compression would be higher.
-Water jacket cooling worked.

Package contain :
1 Pcs cylinder
1 Pcs Piston 60 mm.
1 Pcs Piston pin.
1 Set Piston rings.
1 Pcs upper gasket,alu.

All other using stock parts.race proven,daily tested.Very recomended for daily use,no modify require.Price USD 200.

[glow=red]Racing gear ratio[/glow]

You all know that 135lc has almost no power gain on 4th gear.
This because on stock ratio its design for overall usage and concern for fuel consupmtion.
This may disturb for speed freak like us.we want to gain power on top right?
no more power loose.

You may change to factory made gear ratio.I have 2 kind of ratio.

Stock ratio:

1st 12/34 =2,83
2nd 16/30 =1,87
3rd 17/23 =1,35
4th 22/23 =1,04

Racing purposes:
================
This ratio is replace all stock gears,it come in 4pcs.
Hardened material and precision.factory made.
Price USD 280

Daily purposes:
===============
This ratio just replace 3rd and 4th gear.total ratio would be

1st using stock
2nd using stock
3rd 17/24 =1,41
4th 20/23 =1,15

Hardened material and precision.factory made.
Price USD 160.

[glow=red]High performance camshaft[/glow]
==================

-Hard material,very low wound on usage.
-Race proven,tested.
-Very good on all powerband.accel to top speed.
-Ball bearing not include,also could supply add FAG high speed ball bearing.
Price USD 110


HOT INFO

We also could modify engine head using 30 in 25 ex valve ,but recomended for competition use only.as the water jacket would be inactive totally.

race spring valve and clutch spring would be come soon.

For further info and inquiry,do not hesitate to contact me by PM (private message) on this forum or email mrrockies@YMAIL.com

Happy racing.... RESELLER WELCOME

NEW INVENTION,SECOND GENERATION BIG VALVE

In Valve 25,5mm Ex 22,5mm with larger valve shaft 5mm 5 angle technology
Much more stronger on valve.Price CALL or private message me.

New 35,34,32,30mm carburetor manifold
Price CALL or Private message

direct email to mrrockies@YMAIL.com


seeking other country to be a distributor

 

[Mr.Rockies]

all plug and play,just prepair your wrench only.

 

[CryptonX]

hey bro how much the 4 valves costs(25mm-21mm)
only the valves

 

[haen]

hello mr. Rockies.. we meet again.. up for the sales.. looks like the big valve came from my home town right ? Mr. Stroker.. care to comment ?

 

[goff_d_p]

WOW

WOW!!!! That's what i have been looking for. But the price is just out of this world. Maybe if i get my pension increase i will invest in that kit.

... But what about valve springs, i don't see any in the picture, do you just use the stock springs?? and what about the rest of the gaskets? are they all included, or just the upper only??
.....just questioning to make sure it's all plug and play and won't need to run to the nearest store to get something thats not in your kit.

 

[justkir]

this is tempting...

 

[Mr.Rockies]

@CryptonX
it come in set,as it may different valve end cup degree with yours.as it modified and match with modified head also.

@haen
hello...i am affraid not,i made it by myself with some expert mechanics here.it may look almost same but its much perfect than other.but for the other 160cc head is similar as yours.

@goff_d_p
yes,price is quite high as this to carry the research and trial cost.for valve spring,it would be better if using aftermarket spring.I suggest using asian cup series spring.its very durable and very well on racing usage either daily.no need to buy anything if using stock part as it may perform basic performance.basic performance increase almost 50% power gain than stock 135cc,but if you want superb performance you may need aftermarket camshaft and spring.gasket included.

@justkir
just make your dream come to reality...

 

[CryptonX]

well i need only the valves cause i have a way to match them at my head

 

[justkir]

i wish, but recession coming... need to save money...

 

[CryptonX]

i wish, but recession coming... need to save money...

save money for speeeeeeeed!!!!!!!! today im ordering my camsaft and in two weeks we will have the first 60mm fi t135 in our forum !!!!!!!!! after that i will need a valve set

 

[Mr.Rockies]

@CryptonX
if you install with your own risk of missmatch valve with your engine head then i can supply you.4 pcs valve for usd 80 exclude shipment.hard material.

@justkir
yup bro...

 

[CryptonX]

ok bro ill pm you when i save the money cause i spent them all at cilinder piston and cam

here in crete we have a workshop and we can do whatever we want in our heads also match different type of valves bigger smaller
another type of camsaft etc

 

[justkir]

i have used 57mm piston and i have tried my friend's bike on 60mm...the respond was totally different.

i wish my dream comes true by getting the 180cc set!

 

[Mr.Rockies]

@CryptonX

good job,where do you live?

@justkir
mostly,pepole who modify their bike to 60mm ( 3,14 x 60 x 60 x 57 stroke / 4 = 161 cc) not effective on their water jacket circulation works.anyway,you should try big valve on 180cc,totally awesome !!!

 

[dehanz]

Refering to above picture, are the valve seats getting a 5-angle job? It's look like it got one.

What is the connecting rod length?

Your 180cc kit is a killer dude!

 

[stroker]

hello mr. Rockies.. we meet again.. up for the sales.. looks like the big valve came from my home town right ? Mr. Stroker.. care to comment ?

Oh well. If you insist sir.. :cry: :cry: keke.

I come in peace. Just curious about a few things. I just briefly scanned tru yr ad Mr Rockies. Pretty neat stuff. But few questions:

* When/ which factory made the gear ratio? When you said 'Factory', I'll presume Yamaha Factory. I didn't know Yamaha Factory produces racing gear ratio set. Yamaha Factory of which country? This is VERY new to me.

* Factory made 60mm kit???? This new to me too.

* Any reason why is alu bronze used for valve seats? Your valve material? The valves you used don't seemed like titanium or stainless steel ones.. IMHO I'll go for other valve seat materials. EDITED: I just added the following: Reason for me saying so is, I personally don't find CuAl that tough as you've put it. The hardest CuAl aloy avail is in the region of HRC29. While most are barely at HRB89 or so. The iron seats are around 40-50 HRC. Powder metal seats up to 60HRC. The BeCu seats I used are around 40HRC.

* FYI, 60mm bore is 162.2cc. While the 63.5mm bore is 181.69cc. Both on standard stroke.

* As far as I know, the 60mm kit doesn't have a reduction in water passageway. Well, at least none of the 60mm block I've seen are done in that way.

* Correct me if Im wrong, the con rod you're supplying is the stock T135 con rod with the small end hole enlarged to 15mm and offset 1mm? I won't do it. Very daring move.

* I notice you don't supply cam for both yr kits. Another very daring move.

BTW, Hi Dehanz. That's a 3-angle valve seat. Not 5-angle. Con rod length should be same as stock.

Nice stuff (fr the small piccies). Up for yr sale. Feel free to enlighten me.

 

[haen]

Casey Stroker is back .. .. well.. mr.Rockies.. enlighten us all here...

 

[Mr.Rockies]

@dehanz

+) for angle degree its kind of "confidential info" =) yes valve angle should be change as its larger diameter.anyway thank you bro...

@stroker
Hello again...regarding to your questions:

1.What i mean factory,its not made by personal.no its not yamaha,its my lcome from my country company which product gearing for motorcycle.

2.same as above,iwhat i mean its not modifying a cylinder (in 160cc) its completely casting by factory.here is not yamaha.

3.Alu bronze is using on valve seat not the valve.For valve material better using high grade metal.

4.yup youre correct, the fromula is 3,14 x piston dia x piston dia x stroke /4

5.On some product yes,it seems not may not block the water passage way,but it block a little bit.and it may gain high temp on performance usage.then the water may sneak to head and make white smoke.sure it may not be able to seen on daily but for hard riding it just need 30 minute to get your exhaust like train =).My product is different and no overheat.

6.It would be as your wish on order,but in my standard kit i use only stock conrod with enlargement to be fit on piston pin.stroke up also available but i dont recomended for daily use as it may also change crank hole.for daily i just use stock with enlargement.but once again i serve what ever you need.note if within on safe after my research.

7.I also made a cam which i will offer in couple days.also valve spring which tottaly guarantee will not float on high rpm.

I hope this may answer your questions,do not hesitate for questions as this is a pure engineering.

 

[stroker]

@dehanz

+) for angle degree its kind of "confidential info" =) yes valve angle should be change as its larger diameter.anyway thank you bro...

@stroker
Hello again...regarding to your questions:

1.What i mean factory,its not made by personal.no its not yamaha,its my lcome from my country company which product gearing for motorcycle.

2.same as above,iwhat i mean its not modifying a cylinder (in 160cc) its completely casting by factory.here is not yamaha.

3.Alu bronze is using on valve seat not the valve.For valve material better using high grade metal.

4.yup youre correct, the fromula is 3,14 x piston dia x piston dia x stroke /4

5.On some product yes,it seems not may not block the water passage way,but it block a little bit.and it may gain high temp on performance usage.then the water may sneak to head and make white smoke.sure it may not be able to seen on daily but for hard riding it just need 30 minute to get your exhaust like train =).My product is different and no overheat.

6.It would be as your wish on order,but in my standard kit i use only stock conrod with enlargement to be fit on piston pin.stroke up also available but i dont recomended for daily use as it may also change crank hole.for daily i just use stock with enlargement.but once again i serve what ever you need.note if within on safe after my research.

7.I also made a cam which i will offer in couple days.also valve spring which tottaly guarantee will not float on high rpm.

I hope this may answer your questions,do not hesitate for questions as this is a pure engineering.

Haha. Nice. Cleared a few of my doubts. Ha.

FYI, The taiwan made 60mm blocks (factory- in yr case) are not very good. Its not because it causes overheating. But because the firing ring is too near to the coolant passage to effect a good seal. If the CR is left unchecked (standard head vol), it'll leak in matter of mins. It leaked because the block can't seal the pressure with the limited material left around the firing ring, not because it has overheating problem.

Ok, currently, I'm building this race bike, Max rpm targetted to be 15,000RPM. Your spring guarantee won't float?? I'll buy a dozen off you if that really is the case. I'm serious.

I meant, I don't think CuAl (Alu Bronze), as a valve seat material, is as strong as you reckon. Its just not. Its pure metallurgy.

As I've said, the strongest CuAl alloy is around 29 HRC in hardness. Most common grades of the CuAl you get out there is only at 89 HRB. If you're using steel valves, there's totally no point in using Alu Bronze for valve seats. Especially with a heavy 25mm inlet STEEL valve. It will not last. You're better off with hardened Iron seats. Can withstand more on-seat pressure and pounding of your 'guarantee won't float springs'.

I still stand my point, its very dangerous to enlarge the small end eye-let. The stock con rod is already too damn weak. It won't help with the eyelet being enlarged a further 1mm.

If you did not offset the 15mm hole, the piston will end up 1mm taller then stock. I don't mean stroking the crank by offset drilling the small end. You won't stroke it that way.

I like to discuss pure engineering stuff. Hope you don't mind. If you've developed yr parts with the proper methodology, Its good. Not many ppl do so around this region.

Oh btw, you've mis-understood dehanz. He was asking if the VALVE SEAT is a 5-angle cut seat. I replied him that its a 3-angle seat. He wasn't referring to the valve angles.

Cheers.
PS: I prefer rossifumi.

 

[haen]

Go !! Go !!!!!! VALENTINO STROKER.. )