4f7erx
Veteran
mga bros, try 15/40 combi sprocket. i got 125 all stock + backrider. it works to my 4 yr old snipee.
TOPSPEED of your T135??
- Thread starter the_one
- Start date
Carl Owen
New Member
Has anyone compared break-in procedures and top speed? Here is a break-in procedure which tells you to ride it to put stress on the engine (not too much of course) when new or rebuilt, one of a few I have read: http://www.ntnoa.org/enginebreakin.htm
Would love to hear if anyone has found that a particular break-in for a T135 has given you a few more kph compared to a friend's break-in, for example.
Would love to hear if anyone has found that a particular break-in for a T135 has given you a few more kph compared to a friend's break-in, for example.
infinity01
Super Veteran
mine was 100 kph @ 3rd gear.
haven't tried 4th gear yet. kapos sa daan.
all stock
haven't tried 4th gear yet. kapos sa daan.
all stock
infinity01
Super Veteran
done my back reading mamaw talaga mga riders ng t135
bow talaga ako
bow talaga ako
jamskie
Super Veteran
no sirDo you guys use car oil rather than motorcycle oil for the first 500-1000Km? I understand this gives better seating for the rings on a new engine. (get my new T135 in 10 days!)
rhoitol
Super Veteran
just follow the manual sir..Do you guys use car oil rather than motorcycle oil for the first 500-1000Km? I understand this gives better seating for the rings on a new engine. (get my new T135 in 10 days!
Carl Owen
New Member
Has anybody used car oil for new engine break-in? Do you all disagree with this?.... Thanks
http://www.ntnoa.org/enginebreakin.htm .......
"If the wrong type of oil is used initially, or the break-in is too easy, rings and cylinders could (read will) glaze and never seal properly. A fresh cylinder wall needs some medium to high engine loading to get the piston rings to seat properly for good compression but make sure you don't lug or overheat the engine. Use high quality, low viscosity oil (Valvoline 30 weight), no synthetics, too slippery. If synthetics are used during initial break in the rings are sure to glaze over.
and also from here:
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm ........
3 more words on break- in:
NO SYNTHETIC OIL !!
Use Valvoline, Halvoline, or similar 10 w 40 Petroleum Car Oil for at least
2 full days of hard racing or 1,500 miles of street riding / driving.
After that use your favorite brand of oil.
Viewer Questions:
Q: If break- in happens so quickly, why do you recommend using petroleum break- in oil for 1500 miles ??
A: Because while about 80% of the ring sealing takes place in the first hour of running the engine,
the last 20% of the process takes a longer time. Street riding isn't a controlled environment, so most of the mileage may
not be in "ring loading mode". Synthetic oil is so slippery that it actually "arrests" the break in process before the rings can seal completely. I've had a few customers who switched to synthetic oil too soon, and the rings never sealed properly no matter how hard they rode. Taking a new engine apart to re - ring it is the last thing anyone wants to do, so I recommend a lot
of mileage before switching to synthetic. It's really a "better safe than sorry" situation.
Q: My bike comes with synthetic oil from the factory, what should I do ??
A: I recommend changing the factory installed synthetic oil back to petroleum for the break-in period.
Q: What about the main and rod bearings, don't they break - in ??
A: Actually, the operation of plain bearings doesn't involve metal to metal contact !! The shiny spots on used
bearings are caused from their contact with the crankshaft journals during start up after the engine has been sitting a while,
and the excess oil has drained off. This is the main reason for not revving up the engine when it's first started.
The subject of plain bearings is one of the most mysterious aspects of engines, and will be covered in a future issue
of Power News. In it, I'll reveal more information that fully explains the non-contact phenomenon.
Q: Why change the oil at 20 miles ?? Doesn't the oil pick up
screen catch the aluminum bits ???
A: It's true that the screen stops the big pieces, but many areas of the engine aren't within the oil filtration system. The oil that is splashed around will circulate metal debris to the lubricated bearing surfaces. For example, transmission gears and their ball bearings are unprotected by the filtration system, and even the cam chain makes a perfect "conveyer belt" to
bring metal debris up into the cylinder head !!
A close examination of a new engine will reveal lots of aluminum deposits on steel parts. This aluminum coats and tightens
up the clearances of the parts, which creates a loss of power. Most of the time I spend "blueprinting"
an engine is actually inspecting every part and "de-aluminizing" them !!
I prefer to remove the oil pan and clean the aluminum bits out of a new engine out that way, but a $20 oil change
is an easy and inexpensive way to flush the initial particles that come loose in the first miles.
Q: What about motorcycle V.S. car oils ???
A: This is a topic all by itself !! It will be covered in a future issue of Power News.
Q: Will this break - in method cause my engine to wear out faster ???
A: No, in fact, a poor ring seal will allow an increase in the by products of combustion to contaminate the oil.
Acid contamination and oil consumption are the 2 reliability problems which are the result of an
"owner's manual" or "magazine tech article" style easy break-in.
By following the instructions on this page, you'll find that your oil is cleaner and the engine will rev quicker.
Plus, you'll have much better torque and power across the power range from the vastly improved ring seal.
Reliability and Power are 100% connected !!
Carl Owen
New Member
Sorry all. Just highlight the white sections to see the answers to the green questions.
I have also read that there is little difference between car and engine oil and that manufacturers of bike oil advertise that bike oil has to be better as our machines rev higher than car engines, but some people think this is an excuse to sell bike oil at higher prices. (Talking about non-synthetic to non-synthetic and synthetic to synthetic oil comparisons here) Interesting.....
I have also read that there is little difference between car and engine oil and that manufacturers of bike oil advertise that bike oil has to be better as our machines rev higher than car engines, but some people think this is an excuse to sell bike oil at higher prices. (Talking about non-synthetic to non-synthetic and synthetic to synthetic oil comparisons here) Interesting.....
boytiempoh
Member
just sharing,
based from my sniper mx.
based from my sniper mx.
TOP SPEED: 115-120
SPROCKET COMBI:14-42
TIRE SIZES:70/90f-100/70r
ODOMETER:2500kms
MODIFICATION:all stock
SPROCKET COMBI:14-42
TIRE SIZES:70/90f-100/70r
ODOMETER:2500kms
MODIFICATION:all stock
Samboy Del Rosario
Super Veteran
lakas ng MX mo sir hehehe
sakin eh hinde pa masyado maganda pag kaka tono at hinde pa matono as of the moment kase maulan at bago cams pero eto ung last try bago nag palit ng cams.
TOP SPEED : 135 kph
SPROCKET COMBI : 15 - 42
TIRES : STOCK TIRES OF MX 70/90f-100/70r
ODOMETER : 1200kms
MODS : Vixion Valve Spring, Nakasone Clutch Spring, LHK S2 Cams, Rextor V3 RCDI, Open Pipe,stock carb di pa na rejet.
135 topspeed hinde ako maxadong satisfied as of the moment parang kulang pa...
boytiempoh
Member
saktong takbo lang bro.
need ko na nga ata patono carb dahil mejo may backfire niya.
lakas na ng motor mo sir.
ayos din set-up niya.
pero may nakita ako pinost ni admin traxxas.
135kph sa sniper mx.
all stock except rcdi-rextor v3
pa-ot lang.
diba sir taga pampanga ka lang?
Samboy Del Rosario
Super Veteran
kaya nga eh.. kaya na hihinaan ako sa motor ko kulang pa sa tono pero sa pag kaka sabi ng mga pro and masters saken na mga nka kita sa motor ko.. hinde raw match ang cams and pipe ko pang 150cc+ daw ung elbow at cams ko dapat raw mag 57mm+ ako na bore.. para daw mag match at lumabas talaga ung tunay na lakas...
YUP sir! pampanga ka lng rin? matagal na ako nag hahanap ng mga pwede mka group dito sa pampanga mga barkada rito eh nag sipag trabaho na sa manila.. bali pag naiinip ako uwi ako sa bahay nmen sa Qc byahe ako mag isa hahaha... every weekends lng kase ung mga barkada ko rito kaya nghahanap ako ng mga mkaka groupo rito sa YT135 hehehe
Samboy Del Rosario
Super Veteran
kaya nga eh.. kaya na hihinaan ako sa motor ko kulang pa sa tono pero sa pag kaka sabi ng mga pro and masters saken na mga nka kita sa motor ko.. hinde raw match ang cams and pipe ko pang 150cc+ daw ung elbow at cams ko dapat raw mag 57mm+ ako na bore.. para daw mag match at lumabas talaga ung tunay na lakas...
YUP sir! pampanga ka lng rin? matagal na ako nag hahanap ng mga pwede mka group dito sa pampanga mga barkada rito eh nag sipag trabaho na sa manila.. bali pag naiinip ako uwi ako sa bahay nmen sa Qc byahe ako mag isa hahaha... every weekends lng kase ung mga barkada ko rito kaya nghahanap ako ng mga mkaka groupo rito sa YT135 hehehe
Samboy Del Rosario
Super Veteran
ops! sorry sa double post nag loloko net..