yup its ok...using rcdi + r valve spring...what is the effect of using racing valve spring + stock cdi..?
if using racing cdi + racing valve spring, is it ok if i'm using stock cam + stock valve..?
racing valve spring only effects your mc's performance if you use racing cdi.what is the effect of using racing valve spring + stock cdi..?
if using racing cdi + racing valve spring, is it ok if i'm using stock cam + stock valve..?
Yuuppp... thanks, man...very informative!
If you use rcdi you have higher engine revolution, so for higher and faster top end revolution, it is advisable to use racing valve spring, specially if you are on the racing business... But if for everyday use, I suggest the stock valve. You only need a little makeover by putting washer on the bottom of each spring. Two washers each would be good to increase valve spring rpm.papz to be clear.... f i use rcdi.. i nid only to change my valve spring?? stock valve?? ok lng??
And racing valve spring is most advisable if you use racing camshaft, or else you won't feel the difference.papz to be clear.... f i use rcdi.. i nid only to change my valve spring?? stock valve?? ok lng??
thank you papz... i'll change my stock cdi to brt dualband and add only 2 washers to my valve spring.. im not into racing... i use my mc for long trips sometimes only.. hehehe... no valve float papz?? ok to use wid high rpm?? f negative for valve.. i thnk butas piston will probably the problem coz of too much rpm.. am i ryt papz??And racing valve spring is most advisable if you use racing camshaft, or else you won't feel the difference.
valve float won't damage your engine. It's only a sign that you need a valve spring that can handle higher RPM. Valve float happens when your vspring can't handle your engine rpm. Because once your speed reaches its maximum valve spring rpm, it will stay there. So if your MC can go 13,000 rpm, and your valve spring can only handle 9,000 rpm, then your speed will only stay on 9000 rpm, meaning you have 4,000 rpm unused. you will then hear a rattling sound in your cylinder head...over rpm is very rare on stock bore sir. unless you let it run on lower gears for long periods of time. you only need to keep on shifting up and you will not worry about over rev. Over rev may scratch your piston and block and may also bend your valves. I'm into racing and I uses stock valve spring with only single washer each. So far the hardest FG i experienced is the RXT 135 yahamaha bore up. We were running parallel until i shift to 4th gear and thats the only time I see some space. And take note that my sprocket is 14x45 1st gear 60, 2nd 85, 3rd 125, 4th gear 145-150kph. Stock bore no pin. Just camshaft, carb and cdi.thank you papz... i'll change my stock cdi to brt dualband and add only 2 washers to my valve spring.. im not into racing... i use my mc for long trips sometimes only.. hehehe... no valve float papz?? ok to use wid high rpm?? f negative for valve.. i thnk butas piston will probably the problem coz of too much rpm.. am i ryt papz??
145 -150 papz?? wow wat brands of cam, rcdi and carb did u use?? wat kind?? hmm papz our stock snper has a 8,500 rpm?? am i ryt?? i want to have atleast 10,000 rpm only and put limiter on 10,000 rpm.. any suggestion on wat to do and wat parts would i modify to hav 10,000 rpm only... my reason to have 10,000 rpm only to prevent damage on my cylinder and piston.. does 10,000 rpm could not do harm on dat latter parts?? thank you so much papz.. very informative statementvalve float won't damage your engine. It's only a sign that you need a valve spring that can handle higher RPM. Valve float happens when your vspring can't handle your engine rpm. Because once your speed reaches its maximum valve spring rpm, it will stay there. So if your MC can go 13,000 rpm, and your valve spring can only handle 9,000 rpm, then your speed will only stay on 9000 rpm, meaning you have 4,000 rpm unused. you will then hear a rattling sound in your cylinder head...over rpm is very rare on stock bore sir. unless you let it run on lower gears for long periods of time. you only need to keep on shifting up and you will not worry about over rev. Over rev may scratch your piston and block and may also bend your valves. I'm into racing and I uses stock valve spring with only single washer each. So far the hardest FG i experienced is the RXT 135 yahamaha bore up. We were running parallel until i shift to 4th gear and thats the only time I see some space. And take note that my sprocket is 14x45 1st gear 60, 2nd 85, 3rd 125, 4th gear 145-150kph. Stock bore no pin. Just camshaft, carb and cdi.
I believe you can hardly reach 10,000rpm with your stock bore. if you would put a meter on your accelerator grip, you will notice that you only using almost 3/4 of your throttle, then you will hear a sound coming from your carb like a feedback air saying "this is as fast as I can go".(try to slowly accelerate your 2nd and 3rd gears up and see where it will stop reving up) so don't worry. Stock cdi rev limit it at 1/2 throttle. Im not sure about the RPM sir hehe145 -150 papz?? wow wat brands of cam, rcdi and carb did u use?? wat kind?? hmm papz our stock snper has a 8,500 rpm?? am i ryt?? i want to have atleast 10,000 rpm only and put limiter on 10,000 rpm.. any suggestion on wat to do and wat parts would i modify to hav 10,000 rpm only... my reason to have 10,000 rpm only to prevent damage on my cylinder and piston.. does 10,000 rpm could not do harm on dat latter parts?? thank you so much papz.. very informative statement
for everyday use, vixion valve spring and brt hyperband cdipaps, i would like to change my cdi and valve spring this april. what is the best valve spring and cdi.? what brand? i use my mc everyday and for long rides every weekend
does this vixion valve spring can handle too much stress for a cdi that can go up to 13000 rpm?for everyday use, vixion valve spring and brt hyperband cdi
what can you say bro?