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Sniper 150 General Thread

JapSpeed

Super Veteran
Sundin mo ito bro.
posted above po ito.:

1) Make sure the dealer Offers a lot of freebies, good insurance policies (CPTL, TPL, OD, Comprehensive Insurance, just search it for you to know the meaning), and a lot of coupons.
2) Make sure the motorcycle you are going to get has not been tested yet or being started in idle just to know if it works. If in that case it will ruin the break-in process like what is stated in motoman's article.
Things to check before buying out your mc:
- Check the fairings for damages
- see if the handle is aligned from the front fork and tires and also the rear tires.
- check for leaks
- check the signal lights and break lights and your GAUGE for any broken pixel (without starting the mc and during starting your mc)
- check for replaced parts (I can attest that most mechanics and personnel would replace parts from a new mc:censored: with substandard or used ones)
- make sure you get both keys and the ECU Password(for EFI Cash basis)
3) After buying the mc, you should consider every detail in the mechanic's orientation and ask whatever you want to ask and you should even get his/her number and make sure they put Yamaha mineral oil on your new MC (I'm sorry to tell you but they usually put synthetic so im sorry).
4) BUY ONLY FROM YAMAHA 3S SHOP DEALERS
4) Only start the motorcycle if you are going to begin your break in process. Like what motoman said, the first 20miles is the most important so when you get out from the 3s shop, you will begin the break-in process.
5) When breaking in, make sure you have warmed up your mc for 1min(it would be enough for an FI mc) and DO NOT REV.
6) After warming up, start slow(while you are still in the 3s shop) and when you get out, you can burst your acceleration.
7) During the break-in, all you need to do is to:

(I will not explain to you all of the details since I assume you already did a lot of research)

(Figure 1)(step 1)

>burst accel(full throttle) then shiftup to 2nd
>burst accel(full throttle) then shiftup to 3rd
>burst accel(full throttle) (do not shift to 4th) close throttle to engine break (DO NOT EVER BRAKE)
>shift down to 2nd (with timing, do not suddenly shift down to 2nd if you are running fast or you will drift)
>shift down to 1st (with timing, do not suddenly shift down to 2nd if you are running fast or you will drift)

(Figure 2)(step 2)
>burst accel(full throttle) then shiftup to 2nd
>burst accel(full throttle) then shiftup to 3rd
>burst accel(full throttle) then shiftup to 4th
>burst accel(full throttle) then close throttle to engine break and decelerate
>shift down to 2nd (with timing, do not suddenly shift down to 2nd if you are running fast or you will drift)
>shift down to 1st (with timing, do not suddenly shift down to 2nd if you are running fast or you will drift)

(Figure 3)(step 3)
>long bursts and quick decelerations and so on

Please be reminded to rest your mc for 5-10mins after your first 10-15kms.
 

ja salarda

New Member
mas maganda biritin sa 1st gear to 3rd gear then downshift to 2nd gear down to 1st gear then birit naman. pg binirit wg mg dalawang isip.. bumba talaga para mrong pressure ang mga piston rings sa loob... don't worry my limiter naman yn. sagad mo 10k rpm bawat shift.. basta walang sagabal sa daan biritin mo..

pg mg donwshift wag pigain ang clutch lever. hayaan mong humiyaw yng makina... pero d basta basta mg downshift baka mg slide yng rear tire mo...


hindi magcclutch sa downshift?
 

ja salarda

New Member
Sundin mo ito bro.
posted above po ito.:



(Figure 1)(step 1)

>burst accel(full throttle) then shiftup to 2nd
>burst accel(full throttle) then shiftup to 3rd
>burst accel(full throttle) (do not shift to 4th) close throttle to engine break (DO NOT EVER BRAKE)
>shift down to 2nd (with timing, do not suddenly shift down to 2nd if you are running fast or you will drift)
>shift down to 1st (with timing, do not suddenly shift down to 2nd if you are running fast or you will drift)

(Figure 2)(step 2)
>burst accel(full throttle) then shiftup to 2nd
>burst accel(full throttle) then shiftup to 3rd
>burst accel(full throttle) then shiftup to 4th
>burst accel(full throttle) then close throttle to engine break and decelerate
>shift down to 2nd (with timing, do not suddenly shift down to 2nd if you are running fast or you will drift)
>shift down to 1st (with timing, do not suddenly shift down to 2nd if you are running fast or you will drift)

(Figure 3)(step 3)
>long bursts and quick decelerations and so on

Please be reminded to rest your mc for 5-10mins after your first 10-15kms.

ito nagawa ko na dre...thanks
 

mac kevin

Super Veteran
dont follow motomans break-in process with smxi, it will lessen the span of ur engine and no effect at all, take good care ur mc like a baby, this is not a race bike, play it softly unless u will go for race... as long as ur rev ur mc everyday, use it, and try to reach top in straight road thats fine, normal break-in will do...
 
Last edited:

mac kevin

Super Veteran
i hv classic sniper, bought it in 2011, but sold it for MY nex SMXi black, my classic had no hard break-in process but still can reach 120 kph all stock, hard break-in doesnt do anything to a service bike, if u will go for a race then simply upgrade it...
 

ja salarda

New Member
i hv classic sniper, bought it in 2011, but sold it for MY nex SMXi black, my classic had no hard break-in process but still can reach 120 kph all stock, hard break-in doesnt do anything to a service bike, if u will go for a race then simply upgrade it...
congrats on your new bike, wow 120, any tips?


dont follow motomans break-in process with smxi, it will lessen the span of ur engine and no effect at all, take good care ur mc like a baby, this is not a race bike, play it softly unless u will go for race... as long as ur rev ur mc everyday, use it, and try to reach top in straight road thats fine, normal break-in will do...
i have no intention in racing, i've just read that break in process is to fit the piston ring perfectly.
 

trevor

Super Veteran
I don't understand why is it necessary to change oil and filter at 20Km so soon.
That engine oil loaded in was for break in purpose I suppose. Until you reach the allowed km run stated in the manual then it should be fine changing oil. I don't think they will provide a manual which will destroy the engine in the end.

I am based in Japan, I recently bought a scooter in August, yamaha BW's. The shop tech told me to come back for my first change oil after 1000km run. He also said no need to touch the filter. He adviced me to change oil every 1500km run or less (maximun oil use). Break in? I did it nice and easy. Just don't stay on the same speed for a prolong time.

Just sharing here. Either way, there are many inputs given to consider.

Helmet on. Put on proper gears and ride safe.
 

oval

New Member
Hello,

I live in Thailand and I want to buy the Exciter 150.

I just want to ask - there seems to be some problems with the bike, although I only speak English so I cannot read what everybody says! Are there many problems?

Should I wait until Yamaha fix the problems with the bike before I buy?

Thank you :)
 

phvmous

New Member
Hello,

I live in Thailand and I want to buy the Exciter 150.

I just want to ask - there seems to be some problems with the bike, although I only speak English so I cannot read what everybody says! Are there many problems?

Should I wait until Yamaha fix the problems with the bike before I buy?

Thank you :)
What problems may I ask? I have an Excitier 150 here in Vietnam, so far no issues with 3000 km on the odometer.
 

takomi

Super Veteran
Yamaha motorcycle is a Big name in motorcycle industry, i dont think that they will release a 150cc bike with an issue, it may ruin their brand name,.in terms of sales yamaha is the best selling motorcycle in the philippines.,
 

taurus

New Member
I just bought last June 20 of this bike. And im so happy and must say very proud. My only concern is the knocking
Sound that you wil hear which according to the mechanic at yamaha dealer it is from the clutch housing which is normal. I am still at break in period (motoman). But still i need your help guys if you have any opinion this noise.
 

julianito_maldito

New Member
@eldridge27 sir on what number did you set the pitsbike? kasi based on sir kim redbull 1-4 touring 5-8 race mode.. i really want 1 kaso hesitant pa ako kaya tanong tanong muna sa mga nakagamit nito..:D:D:thumbsup::thumbsup:

currently using HGM free flow pipe silver canister
 

tabi1

Super Veteran
mga paps ano magandang set sa sniper150?

currently installed
Pitsbike Rcing ECU no limit
rest all stock

thanks
"no limit",, I would advise you set a max RPM limit or you will be piecing together a new engine if you are not careful !! Especially since you have an all stock motor with zero upgrades to ensure higher RPM's can be tolerated.

Just my .02 cents,,,

Also, there's no such thing as "NO LIMIT", everything and everyone has a limit,,, if you don't believe me just ask your wife or girlfriend and she will tell you the same :cool:
 
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