SOME PROVEN TIPS and TRICKS for T135

[phl6684]

me also already try the #3 tip today...n it giv my plug back 2 normal state...hahahaha...but there is white smoke coming out from the pipe..how can i prevent this guys??

 

[haen]

hello, FYI.. actually the #3 tip has nothing to do directly with A/F mixtures on the carb.. it only helps the engine to threw out blow by gases thus makes it cooler a bit.. by doing so(unplugging the hose).. the air in the filter box is less saturated by oil mist.. should be making the A/F mixture a bit lean..

if it's white smoke problem, possible causes

a. wrong valve clearance
b. worn/bad valve stem seal
c. for some reason oil gets into the combustion chamber (could be the oil is low viscosity such as 0W, 5W)
d. if the white smoke came in the morning, its probably water gets in the exhaust and vaporized (should only happen once)
e. too rich fuel mixture should produce BLACK smoke, while white smoke is oil gets into the combustion chamger

@unlimited's case : the proof the engine goes lean is that the start going harder due to more air came in...so white smoke must be came from other source..

i do have this kind of experience once.. but only at hi rpm.. turns out my valve clearance is incorrect...

CMIIW

 

[phl6684]

i drive my bike..but it make a "bang" from my pipe..is it too rich???n my plug is...half black..n half brownish...i want 2 know y this happen bro??

 

[haen]

@phl6684.. a "bang" if closing throttle ? that could be the reed assy AIS problem.. a "bang" can be caused by too lean A/F mixture.. or incorrect ignition.. not rich A/F only.. such thing could happen on usage of racing pipe... or disturbance on ignition process.. e.g CDI/coil,bad spark plug/clearance setting, cabling, etc.. which i think this is happening in ur case.. i happen to experience this thing too after installing that so called ignition booster... if ur plug is half black/half brownish.. i think its misfiring.. the correct color should be all red-brownish color.. the A/F mixture setting only affects 1/3 throttle turn..since 2/3 - full throttle is controlled by needle jet and main jet...

 

[phl6684]

yes..after i close my throttle suddenly it "bang" me...n this just happen once in a while..my a/f is no too lean rite if my plug is half black n brownish??rite??or else...i`ll keep adjusting the A/F MIXTURE...

 

[phl6684]

i open my plug this morning..n it was white again...i think yesterday ater i look at my plug(when its half black n brownish)..i turn the screw clockwise a bit...coz i think it too rich(how fool me)..hehehe...now i turn the screw like yesterday..n i`ll wait untill i ride it n i`ll post it as soon as possible...peace..

 

[goff_d_p35]

just do little adjustments till you get it feeling and running right, don't do a big turn, like if your stock at 1 5/8 turn, don't go strait to a full 2 1/2 turn, make a little adjustment at first. I was just at 2 1/8 turn, the bike felt like it funny, so i did 2 1/2, damn! now it's peppy, but sometimes hard to start. thats something i got to figure out now.

 

[rudduan]

@ haen, u've mentioned before that on tips #3 some racers uses oil catch tank to counter the problem,have u done this b4???

 

[haen]

yup.. but it ruins my good looking T135.. lots of hoses.. lol.. and a medium sized aluminium cylinder... using a pod filter is much efficient for daily ride..

 

[phl6684]

owh..i`ll try it this evening..

 

[King.Leoric]

TIP #8

Use a 4 leg RELAY (BOSCH is recommended, PART CODE BOSCH - 0 332 019 453 ), use this to power ur CDI and make that LAZY HORN TO WORK BETTER !!
(see pics attached)


installation on my BIKE :
(see pics attached)


FEEL THE DIFFERENCE !
1. Better ignition because the current is pure = better performance
2. No more power loss when u turn on the head lamp..
3. Cheap trick to increase ignition performance

UPDATE :
4. Your main lamp now is brighter too

INSTALLATION PROCEDURE :

Leg number 30 goes directly to BATTERY'S POSITIVE TERMINAL , use thick cable and clamp, and fuse house complete with the fuse, 10 A will do...

Leg number 87 goes to CDI (cut the brown cable from the harness in the middle and connect it to the relay)

Leg number 85 goes to main switch (the other END of the brown cable that goes to the CDI female socket)..

Leg number 86 goes to GROUND, use cable terminal and screw it anywhere on the chassis (i screwed it at the CDI's bracket bolt)..

TIPS : buy a relay socket to make it easier and appropriate cable terminals (2 female small terminal (goes to the original socket), 1 small cable terminal (goes to the terminal from the original socket, after u pull it out of course by using small minus screwdriver and press softly the small part at the socket terminal), 8 large female terminal (4 for the relay's legs on the socket,2 for cable connection,2 for spares), 2 male large terminal...

I did apply this tip#8 today.
creating a new wire dedicated for CDI with relay.
i need to have my cdi power wire (color brown) to be separated from
my main wire because ive got lots of gadgets accessories
installed in my bike.

yes it does improve the acceleration because
you will supply the cdi the required amount of current needed by it.
by default if youve got no additional accesories installed, then the stock
brown wire to power your cdi is just fine...

but for me, ive got tons of accesories and lights installed.
then its better to have a dedicated wire.

Isnt it that's the right way.. to be separated... or do I have to TAP in to brown color wire only?

 

[phl6684]

seperated

 

[nadlina7]

aarrrggghh...i'm fed-up already...
can somebody help me...

specs
80/90(f)100/80(r) dunlop tt900 tyre
15/40 rk-m sprocket with 428 chain
cdi change to rextor adjustable
a/f 2 1/2 out
air filter was taken out

all these are installed but still cannot reach 150km/h
what happen to my bike???

 

[AZ135]

You don't have enough horsepower to pull 100/80 tire with a 15/40 sprocket to do 150km/h. You have a better chance with 80/90 on the rear and race valve spring.

 

[nadlina7]

AZ135 bro...
so what combination of sprocket do u prefer??

 

[phl6684]

use smaller tyre bro..

 

[charge]

nadlina7, using stock camshaft, the powerband is decreasing at high rpm.

So, if we are using big rear sprocket, once we reach 130 - 140kph the power curve is going downwards. I am having the same scenario as you too. The power is dipping starting from 140kph.

 

[traxxas-modifier]

aarrrggghh...i'm fed-up already...
can somebody help me...

specs
80/90(f)100/80(r) dunlop tt900 tyre
15/40 rk-m sprocket with 428 chain
cdi change to rextor adjustable
a/f 2 1/2 out
air filter was taken out

all these are installed but still cannot reach 150km/h
what happen to my bike???

4th gear is really the problem with t135.
since you are in malaysia try to buy
-YYpang 4th gear 21T
-YYPANG or TK RACING valve spring

then apply the tips mods by haen

 

[nadlina7]

thanx guys...i'll try it..hopefully it will works...

 

[phl6684]

only yypang 21t 4th gear bro???how bout 1,2, and 3???