Frozen Fire
Veteran
hey isn't it writen on your manual ? 
don't you read that?
don't you read that? 
What lubricant oil do you use?
- Thread starter Frozen Fire
- Start date
Most of the mechanics not all, in here knows what are they doing but when u start asking them questions they unable to explain. The mechanic who services my bike is probably a foreigner. His English sucks, is kind diffcult to understand. Then when I asked another mechanic he said you able to ride more then 100km. All this misleading!!!Finally I spoke to local mechanic and told me not go more the 100km until the odometer reach 3000km
Still maintain what the last mechanic says
Using the shell VSX, riding and changing gear is smooth as silk
Still maintain what the last mechanic says
Using the shell VSX, riding and changing gear is smooth as silk
MioBikerBoyz
Super Veteran
I followed the same rule, well almost. My father used to be a top chopper mechanic and custom builder back in the day and he told me to keep the bike going not over 90 to 100 for 3000kms. He said it was part of the breaking in stage, but the incopetent shit for brains mechanics here told me after 1000, you can let it ride how fast you want it to, but I did not listen to them because they are only Yamaha "bronze" class mechanics.
I took my dad's works of wisdom and the bike is still riding high and smooth.
I took my dad's works of wisdom and the bike is still riding high and smooth.
Dun wori bout the water wetter kamalez, i m using it on my bike.
I drain it out after 10k km, the coolant looks just as new, not a trace of rust.
I agree with the 3000km running-in period rather than the 1000km too.
coz in my time i have run-in a few new bikes and many freshly bored blocks ad piston, it takes bout 3000km for it to fully break-in.
Just check the oil change, when breaking-in, there are bound to have metal powder, shiny little particles suspended in the oil, after bout 3000km its gone.
I drain it out after 10k km, the coolant looks just as new, not a trace of rust.
I agree with the 3000km running-in period rather than the 1000km too.
coz in my time i have run-in a few new bikes and many freshly bored blocks ad piston, it takes bout 3000km for it to fully break-in.
Just check the oil change, when breaking-in, there are bound to have metal powder, shiny little particles suspended in the oil, after bout 3000km its gone.
MioBikerBoyz
Super Veteran
I never bothered to look for any metal particles left in the oil but I did not know metal gets into the oil.
Carrott/Mio- Your piece of advise very much noted and thanks. Carrott-About the water wetter. Where did you get it (price) and how much the mixing ratio. Olso the performance after using this type.
When drain out the stock coolant the top up point is at radiator and resevoir tank with bleeding bolt to be open. I am i correct.
When drain out the stock coolant the top up point is at radiator and resevoir tank with bleeding bolt to be open. I am i correct.
MioBikerBoyz
Super Veteran
Yup thats right bro. Somebody had posted a pic of the screw where you drain the coolant in the forum somewhere, but I can't find it.
i bought it at Eneos, rm48
i mix Silkolene coolant + Spritzer distilled water in 60 : 40 ratio
then add 3 % water wetter from the total volume of the coolant i mixed.
Need to mix bout 700ml in total volume, u better mix a bit more, just in case.
Dun need to bleed it, just pour it in. The radiator doesn't seem to hold air bubbles. I have done it twice, its the same.
Mio, the tiny 10mm screw is just under the exhaust header. Use a wrench, dun use a screwdriver to open it.
Dun open the other screw above the header, its for the engine oil in the head :lol:
i mix Silkolene coolant + Spritzer distilled water in 60 : 40 ratio
then add 3 % water wetter from the total volume of the coolant i mixed.
Need to mix bout 700ml in total volume, u better mix a bit more, just in case.
Dun need to bleed it, just pour it in. The radiator doesn't seem to hold air bubbles. I have done it twice, its the same.
Mio, the tiny 10mm screw is just under the exhaust header. Use a wrench, dun use a screwdriver to open it.
Dun open the other screw above the header, its for the engine oil in the head :lol:
MioBikerBoyz
Super Veteran
Thanks CaroTT, but in this case for now I leave it to the mechanics to do it for me I don't want to poop my bike up and suffer later.
I don't want to poop my bike up and suffer later.Hi Carrott - I thought of mixing water wetter with tap water only as read out from the tech info. Your method seem more protection and precaution to the engine. That good man. Does Eneos have any branch other than wan utama
Mio- It is good to ask the mechanic to perform but at same time when we are doing our self the simple maintenance for bike we able to understand better on our bikes. Most of our mechanic here only want to finish the job ASAP, and when start asking question, they will show their monkey faces!!!!!!
Mio- It is good to ask the mechanic to perform but at same time when we are doing our self the simple maintenance for bike we able to understand better on our bikes. Most of our mechanic here only want to finish the job ASAP, and when start asking question, they will show their monkey faces!!!!!!
MioBikerBoyz
Super Veteran
That's true. If I can afford to do things myself and not worry about making a mess, then I would do everything myself. I mean check this story out:
The last oil change I had, I asked the mechs to clean and rejett the carb, this was at 7000kms.
They took their sweet time and I was bored for the whole 1 hour and finally came back and they said no need to check carb, it still good.
Then when I had to go pay the bill, the mech who worked on my bike was with me and said to the lady at the counter to bill me for the oil change for the "AUTOMATIC HONDA AIR BLADE".
I just looked at him and told me to check again and he looked at my bike and did not know what it was called.
I literally shouted "YAMAHA F*#KING SPARK 135 YOU MORON" to him but in English, not Thai. He was upset.
Damn these mechs here. All the good people are in Bangkok, so right now I am currently pushing my wife to lemme buy the Spark F-I as well so that I can use my current bike for experimenting work and the other for travelling to work and back everyday.
The last oil change I had, I asked the mechs to clean and rejett the carb, this was at 7000kms.
They took their sweet time and I was bored for the whole 1 hour and finally came back and they said no need to check carb, it still good.
Then when I had to go pay the bill, the mech who worked on my bike was with me and said to the lady at the counter to bill me for the oil change for the "AUTOMATIC HONDA AIR BLADE".
I just looked at him and told me to check again and he looked at my bike and did not know what it was called.
I literally shouted "YAMAHA F*#KING SPARK 135 YOU MORON" to him but in English, not Thai. He was upset.
Damn these mechs here. All the good people are in Bangkok, so right now I am currently pushing my wife to lemme buy the Spark F-I as well so that I can use my current bike for experimenting work and the other for travelling to work and back everyday.
its so easy to do, mio.
Read again properly, kamalez.
U gotta use a minimum 30% in volume of coolant .
The water wetter is just an additive.
Onli use water when racing, coz its the regulation, glycol coolant is very slippery.
I do it myself coz i wanna mix my own coolant at the accurate proportions,
I only use Spritzer distilled water, although pricey, but imo its the best and cleanest distilled water i can obtain.
Things like changing oil, coolant and fork oil i do not allow others to do it, coz i m very meticulous bout mixing and measuring liquids.
Damn mechanics just dun do things accurately. They dun have the analytical measuring cylinders and syringes like i do.
Example, when u wanna measure a 48ml liquid, u use a 50 or 100ml measuring cylinder to limit the error, NOT USING A BLOODY HUGE 1 LITER MEASURING CUP. FUCK THEM MECHANICS :x
Example, it makes a real big difference if we dun measure the fork oil volume accurately before filling it in, coz the diameter of T135 fork is very small, an extra 2-3ml is enough to make the front ride height noticeably higher. FUCK THEM MECHANICS X 2 :x
do it properly or dun do it at all.
Eneos got 2 branch, 1 Utama and Jusco Metro Prima
Read again properly, kamalez.
U gotta use a minimum 30% in volume of coolant .
The water wetter is just an additive.
Onli use water when racing, coz its the regulation, glycol coolant is very slippery.
I do it myself coz i wanna mix my own coolant at the accurate proportions,
I only use Spritzer distilled water, although pricey, but imo its the best and cleanest distilled water i can obtain.
Things like changing oil, coolant and fork oil i do not allow others to do it, coz i m very meticulous bout mixing and measuring liquids.
Damn mechanics just dun do things accurately. They dun have the analytical measuring cylinders and syringes like i do.
Example, when u wanna measure a 48ml liquid, u use a 50 or 100ml measuring cylinder to limit the error, NOT USING A BLOODY HUGE 1 LITER MEASURING CUP. FUCK THEM MECHANICS :x
Example, it makes a real big difference if we dun measure the fork oil volume accurately before filling it in, coz the diameter of T135 fork is very small, an extra 2-3ml is enough to make the front ride height noticeably higher. FUCK THEM MECHANICS X 2 :x
do it properly or dun do it at all.
Eneos got 2 branch, 1 Utama and Jusco Metro Prima
MioBikerBoyz
Super Veteran
Yeah the T135 front forks aren't bigger enough in diameter. I like em big, especially for stoppies.
not all people got the skill to do some mechanical job dude..
that's why there are some people who had a job being mechanics..
so that people who don't know shit about engines like me
can use their services for doing all the dirty job for us, in return we pay them money for their living, and for them in return for the money we paid for them it's their job to do things right, i think what mio trying to say is..
if you don't have the tools and brain to do the job don't take the job in the first place..it gonna ends up with you look even more stoopid than the person you really are.. not to mention a few " nice " french word from guys with a full straightfowardness attitude like mio..right dude??
that's why there are some people who had a job being mechanics..
so that people who don't know shit about engines like me
can use their services for doing all the dirty job for us, in return we pay them money for their living, and for them in return for the money we paid for them it's their job to do things right, i think what mio trying to say is..if you don't have the tools and brain to do the job don't take the job in the first place..it gonna ends up with you look even more stoopid than the person you really are.. not to mention a few " nice " french word from guys with a full straightfowardness attitude like mio..right dude??