• If your have CLUB EVENTS/RIDE & would like to announce it here,
    Message traxxas-modifier about it :-)

Yamaha Genuine Racing Cam

haen

Super Veteran
@traxxas : yes.. it's for the malay cam bro.. for stock cam or vixion cam just use 0.10 - 0.15 range, and 0.10 - 0.20 range for vixion as usual.. it's because of different cam profile.. that tick tick sound is normal (for that cam)..
 

traxxas-modifier

Super LOLO
Staff member
joel said:
^ If u want to increase compression on a stock engine, just remove the cylinder base gasket and apply some threebond. U'll save 0.5mm on the overall cylinder height. U'll get a bump of 20psi nearly.

If u have already done this and still wnat to bump compression further, u can remove metal off the head or the bore and then deepen the valve pockets on the piston to prevent valve bang.
On my engine, I'm running 12.5:1 compression ratio. Stock is 10.4.

on my stock engine, i shaved off 1mm on my cylinder block
but still the top and bottom gasket is still there.
after 5000km so far no valve piston damage..
engine runs fast!!!!

I love high compression engines!

bro care to show how did you compute the compression ratio
on this thread
http://www.yamahat135.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=714
 

joel

New Member
traxxas-modifier said:
joel said:
^ If u want to increase compression on a stock engine, just remove the cylinder base gasket and apply some threebond. U'll save 0.5mm on the overall cylinder height. U'll get a bump of 20psi nearly.

If u have already done this and still wnat to bump compression further, u can remove metal off the head or the bore and then deepen the valve pockets on the piston to prevent valve bang.
On my engine, I'm running 12.5:1 compression ratio. Stock is 10.4.

on my stock engine, i shaved off 1mm on my cylinder block
but still the top and bottom gasket is still there.
after 5000km so far no valve piston damage..
engine runs fast!!!!

I love high compression engines!

bro care to show how did you compute the compression ratio
on this thread
http://www.yamahat135.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=714
Hi Traxxas, if u have removed 1mm on your cylinder block on a 57mm vixion block, then ur new compression is ratio is,
formula - cc+Vc/Vc
Vc - Volume of combustion chamber

U have removed 1mm on the cylinder block, so the new combustion chamber volume is 13.35
Stock is 15.9cc

Therefore - 149.7+13.35/13.35 = 12.2
So 12.2:1 is ur new compression ratio.

But, I'm surprised how is it that your valves are not banging, have u modified the piston pockets?
I'm also running top and bottom gaskets.
 

charge

Veteran
mister joel, does threebond sealer degrades over time?
I am planning to decrease by 0.5mm first. If acceleration isn't good, I'll go for 1mm, hahaha.

What is the formula to calculate static compression ratio?
I believe Trax is using stock engine. :)
 

haen

Super Veteran
@joel : yah.. same here.. i'm surprised too that bro traxx can go that far without valve hitting the piston.. here we use 0.5 mm shave for daily.. and 0.8 mm for "extreme"...
 

joel

New Member
charge said:
mister joel, does threebond sealer degrades over time?
No buddy. 3-bond sealer will remain in place as long as u dont remove the block. It will seal really well.
What I mentioned is static compression, not dynamic.
Dynamic will be much higher.

@Haen - From what i've seen anything more than 0.65mm will give a valve bang.
I have a feeling that traxxas bike is running a retarded cam timing. Only then it can miss the piston. Coz the exhaust valve pocket on the piston is 0.3mm deep. It might be barely missing the piston or even touching a bit at high revs, but going un-noticed.
And again if u remove 1mm on the block, there is a possibility of the piston banging the head squish too.
I'm confused whats his set-up.
The piston SHOULD be modified then.

On my engine, I've removed material off the cylinder head too, along with the cylinder block. So it avoids head bang issues. Bit valve pockets have to be cut 1.5mm deep.
My comp ratio is at 12.5:1
 

haen

Super Veteran
@joel : yup.. i think u r right.. maybe mr. Traxx is phasing the cam in retarded mode.. since i've done it myself but on advancing mode.. i won't go that brave as mr. traxx.. still playing safe by removing the lower gasket only.. therefore i can get back to standard setup if needed.. but sometimes i wonder whether threebond is sufficient to prevent heat spreading to the crankcase section.. any comment from joel or mr. Stroker.. i want to experiment with lower block 0.5 mm later..
from what i heard.. higher comp has side effects like heat and more vibration.. but if all cohesively tied together like stroker always said.. who knows..
 

joel

New Member
Haen - I have tried 3-bond base pasting on other high compression engines and they are just fine. Apply a fine layer of paste and its more than sufficient to hold the heat. It has very good heat reistance and can very much withstand engine temperatures.
 

haen

Super Veteran
@joel : good news to hear then.. i knew this threebond is a gem... u use the white and red box type right ?.. specifically for engine ?
 

charge

Veteran
haha, I'll take all of you guys suggestions here!

This round, I am going to revert back to stock camshaft with retarded timing (I suppose it shifts powerband to higher rpm). Still awaiting YYPang valvespring from mr Lc-motorspeed.

And I've my CDi relayed, the 2 small hoses removed from the airbox and the spark plug grounded. hehehe
 

charge

Veteran
lc-motospeed said:
hu? me? have i provided u any aid? haha... well, if u're referring to me then u r welcomed, if not then sorry =) =P >< haha
Yes, you helped me to get valvespring. I can't find any at my place :( :(
 

joel

New Member
haen said:
@joel : good news to hear then.. i knew this threebond is a gem... u use the white and red box type right ?.. specifically for engine ?
Hi Hean, yes I use the same white color threebond paste. ;)

I just got the AFR setting changed on my R15 and its moving really well now.
 

charge

Veteran
Got my racing valvespring from Mr LC. :D

I've done a rough measurement on the stock camshaft. It is a 240 degree cam while LSA is around 110 degree.

Anybody has measured before, mind to share it here?
 

joel

New Member
Hi Hean,
I have a query on the cam now.
I have again installed that fat cam. It looks like a 270deg cam to me. Power is pretty bad in low revs, infact feels really weak between 4-5k rpm. Before and after tha is fine. From 7000rpm it wakes up real hard. But the engine is very noisy. I have clearance of .10 for In and Ext.
Just wondering what experiences you have on this? Will the valves + springs wear out too soon using this cam. I have a race this weekend, just need to take part this time.
I have richened the mixture by changing the AFR setting.
How can the engine be made quiter? Any idea to gain some lost low-end punch.
 
Top